How to hem your garment with Fold Over Elastic

This blog post is a simple tutorial to show you how to add a fold over elastic binding to a knit top hem or cuffs. This technique works best on top styles that are a little flowy but could benefit from a hem that stays in place or doesn’t get in the way of active pursuits.

Step 1) Lay your garment flat and measure the width of the hem. Since this is only half of the garment, double that measurement.

NOTE: if your bodice hem has a lower back side, you should measure the front and back width separately along the hem line, then add them together.

Step 2) Now you’ll calculate how to find the length of the fold over elastic you need. A common ratio is 85% of the garment width, so you would take 40 x .85 = __ inches. (cm) Then add .5” for seam allowance.

Mark this amount on a FOE length but do not cut it yet. Hold that amount to your garment and see if it feels too tight or too loose. You can shift it UP TO 80% or 90%, or just trim/add a little as needed. The goal is to have it feel like it will stay in place when worn but not too tight to create an indent. It will create a bubble effect if you go too short.

Step 3) Cut your FOE to length. Short ends right sides together, sew with a straight stitch at 1/4”. Make sure it isn’t twisted!

Step 4) Mark the garment hem and FOE in 4 sections. Right sides together, pin or clip the FOE to the garment at each section.

Step 5) Sew with a medium zig zag (setting: 2 width, 3 lenght) or a 2 needle coverstitch. Your needle should hit just on the inner edge of the elastic.

Depending on how thick your fabric is: two passes or 1??

That’s it! Congrats